Life in the Kingdom

Saw bai dee mai kha? ( How are you?) I'm getting a bit more comfortable using my Thai. The Thais appreciate it even if I can use a few words... they're more than happy to help me. We are gearing up for the hot season to begin. Thailand has three seasons - the rainy season from August to November, the dry season from December to April and then the HOT season from April to August. We're told to expect temperatures of 40 degrees. I think it's more fitting to say the three seasons consist of hot, hotter and hottest!!

One of the things we continue to discover is Thailands deep felt practices and attitudes that define it, sometimes very different from our western values. For example Thai culture considers loud speech or speaking your mind to be rude. Where we sometimes value directness, indirectness is valued in Thailand. I'm discovering through my facilitation work at the Thai Burma Refugee Consortuim that my facilitation method although welcomed is new. While I tend to use a participatory and experimental style , the method predominately used here is rote learning - facts are presented and students generally are not allowed to question their validity. This has resulted in a skill gap costing Thailand because it has a tendency to stifle creativity and free thinking. Change is happening though however the transition slow. Both Michel and I in our work attempt to understand and integrate those differences . As we learn about Thai history and discover how this culture is defined it helps us adapt. In the Thai work environment they work as collectivists meaning they value harmony, face saving and a WE identity. They have a high sense of personal obligation to the work group and frequently do not disinquish their own priorities and opinions from others in the group. They will not challenge their boss or speak up when the boss is in the room. It is very much a hierachal society and they will ask questions to find where you fit in the hierachy. I've discovered upon meeting a Thai they will be interested in knowing more about me by immediately asking me these questions- Where are you from? What do you do? And....... How old are you? I've learned to respond happily by asking " How old do you think I am"?.. then proceed to tell them and ask them the same?

The death of the King's older sister Princess Galyani resulted in a scaled down Chinese New Year in February. The royal palace issued a 30 day mourning period and requested that entertainment establishments cease merry making for that time period. It was startling to see millions of Bangokians wearing only black and white for that time period. The shops did well as they responded by updating their clothing inventory to meet the demand. Her Buddhist funeral is not scheduled to take place until November. That's the amount of time it will take to refurbish the royal chariot. Thais are very superstitious and even though her death was expected it is considered bad luck to begin the work on the funeral chariot until after a royal dies. In the meantime she lies in state at a compound in the Grand Palace.

If God is to be found in 'small places' - the orphanage is one of the places where this spirit dwells for me. One of the joys of living in Bangkok is the opportunity to meet people from all over the world. Many who give their time to volunteer throughout Thailand. In the photo below are my friends Marion from France, Mio from Japan, and Barb from the UK and of course the children who live at the orphanage - Nutscha, Petmonie, Paul, Dennis and Nontha. This orphanage is located in the Bangkok District of Pakreed and is the only orphanage for disabled children in Thailand. Most of these children will live the rest of their lives here.

This little boy did not have much opportunity to spend time outside of his crib. He was so thrilled when my friend Rosalie took him outside for a walk and some cuddling last week. Thailand has many beautiful beaches. Hua Hin is a beach town about a 1 hour drive. It's very popular as a weekend getaway.

Throughout rural Thailand there are many rice farmers and family operated rice farms. Thailand is the world's leading exporter of rice. Rice farming has formed the basis of the Thai economy since the very earliest days and is still the main occupation of the country’s farmer. Every region depends upon this traditional grain for sustenance and it is easy to observe the various cycles of rice farming . Though many parts of the country produce two and sometime three crops a year, the beginning of the season is usually thought to commence in May with the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, an ancient Brahmin ritual held across from the Grand Palace in Bangkok. A symbolic ploughing takes place at this colourful event, seeds are scattered, and prediction are made regarding the forth coming rainfall and harvest. At this time the rice seedlings are planted by hand, another endeavor in which everyone participates. The rains begin in earnest shortly afterwards, and for about three months the farmers have relatively little to do except maintaining the level of water in the fields of ripening rice and protecting it against birds and insect pests; many younger men go into the monkhood during this period, thus taking one of the traditional steps toward becoming a mature adult. By late November or early December, rice in the fields of the north and central plains is ready for harvest. Once again villagers go out in large groups, working with sickles from early morning until dusk . The cut rice is spread in the fields to dry for several days, then arranged in sheaves and taken to the family compound for threshing and winnowing, a task usually completed by January—though it will be later in the far south, which has two rainy season.

Kelsey, Michel and I recently returned from Cambodia. Cambodia is one the world's poorest countries. The people are in a rebuilding stage after the horrific genocide and war of the 70's. There is startling poverty. Children can be found begging on the streets often with a pimp or their mother watching. I was impressed with the resiliency and tenacity of the Cambodian people. I spent some time talking with the children. They were very happy to practice their English and I enjoyed our conversation. We met a couple of high school children who wanted to show us around and we paid them in exchange for their guiding service. They were interested in getting some suggestions from Kelsey on how to get to know 'foreign girls' and also asked about tips on dating foreign girls. Below is a photo of a family in Phnom Penh. The children approached Michel for money. Their mother stood in the background observing. When Michel offered to buy them dinner she quickly came over and accepted his offer with gratitude. We visited the Killing Fields - the place where the Khumer Rouge slaughtered 1.7 million of Cambodian people without mercy and buried them in mass graves during the 70's. You might have seen the movie "The Killing Fields". There is a stupa at the site which contains some of the skulls recovered from the graves to serve as a tribute and reminder of such an evil era.

Our experience in Cambodia both unsettled and amazed us. I know I felt a stirring there - in the midst of all the sadness - the culture possesses a pride, heartening hope and an energy unimaginable.

Until next time- Go well

With love,

Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey