Life in the Kingdom

Sawaadee kha,

During a conversation with a friend the other day she commented on the "paradoxes" she was observing. "Doesn't make sense" she said.... "why is it like that". I was reminded of a comment a wise woman made when I first arrived and was pondering the same questions. She said... "you'll soon learn not to ask why." While there are obvious value/thought differences between Eastern and Western cultures- one of them is that here in the East there is culture of accepting what is and in the West a tendency to want to know why... I've come to appreciate this wisdom of the East and instead try to mainly choose to be mindful of the teachings in just observing and enjoying the uniqueness that pervades this delightful country. I discover I'm less judgemental this way and more appreciative of the rich diversity. As the rainy season ends, the cold season begins. Temperatures will be in the 27-30 degrees, less humidity and very comfortable to be outdoors without having to find air conditioning respite. It's obvious how important food and dining is in Thai culture. Eating isn’t confined to certain times of the day, it’s an all day and night affair. There is no excuse for going hungry in Thailand. Food is cheap and available 24 hours a day from night markets, restaurants, hawker stalls and food-carts. Eating is generally a social affair in Thailand with Thai people seldom dining alone. The food can be very, very spicy and even if you like spicy food, it is wise to wean your system gently. True to their service oriented nature most cooks when asked will happily make it mai phet ( not spicy.) Thai food is eaten with a spoon and fork (if you’re right-handed, spoon in the right hand). It is the spoon that is placed into the mouth; the fork is used to push food on to the spoon. Chopsticks are only used for Chinese dishes or noodle soup which is eaten with a combination of spoon and chopsticks. Most Thai food is already cut into small pieces before serving or is made soft enough to cut with a spoon or fork and a knife isn’t required.

Despite Thailand’s apparently laid-back and relaxed attitude, manners are important to Thai people and what may be acceptable in Western society is not always appropriate in Thailand

Thai people however are very understanding of Western ways so do not display any offense with our western tendencies :) Thais consider the head to be the most important part of the body as they are at the highest level. Many Thai people don’t like to be touched on the head and to do so may be considered disrespectful. The feet are the lowest part of the body both physically and symbolically. It is best to sit with your feet down on the ground and not resting on tables or chairs. When entering a Thai house or religious shrine, always remove your shoes. For extra politeness, when receiving things from elder people or those higher ranked socially, Thais will use both hands by using the left hand to support the elbow of the right arm while receiving. When beckoning somebody (such as a waiter or taxi driver), the palm faces downwards, never upwards.

The last leg of our journey is creeping along. South East Asia has afforded us so much particularly in terms of exposure to a multi cultural environment and inexpensive traveling opportunities . We continue to enjoy our weekend excursions outside of Bangkok and longer trips to nearby countries. The Thailand long boat races were a spectacle to watch. Long-boat racing is one of the traditional rites which marks the end of the Buddhist Rains Retreat. It mainly takes place in the 11 th or 12 th lunar months (around September or October)when the water level is at its highest.

If you thought the domesticated buffalo is not built for sprinting, the annual buffalo race in Chonburi province on the east coast of the Gulf of Thailand will change your mind. This annual event is definitely a crowd pleaser. This celebration goes back many years when Thai farmers bring their buffalos to this area to race. Jockeys ride bareback on these favoured animals of Thai farmers as they race down the short course.

What a site to see these buffalos racing down the track to the cheers of the crowd. Although somewhat slower than a race horse, these buffalos are a force as they make their dash for glory.

What passes as normal in Thailand can be the sort of thing that is frowned upon in many countries in the West. We're particularly aware of the more casual approach that often exists towards safety matters in Thailand. There is a noticeably different outlook in Thailand towards life (and death). Combined with the more relaxed attitude towards rules and regulations, this actually is part of the appeal of the country.

A visit to Lopburi, the monkey capital of Thailand to view the sunflowers in bloom always delights us. Hundreds of monkeys roam free about the town, delighting and annoying people with their mischief and amusing ways. Seen sitting on the rooftops, on the power lines, crossing the street- they seem to actually outnumber the people. They are cute but beware if they spot people with food or backpacks as they will quickly snatch it and run off. The town is filled with monkey images and monkey sculptures. Locals believe that providing food for Lopburi's most famous residents, brings good fortune and prosperity. It is believed the monkeys are the children of the Hindu god Kala- harming one would therefore bring great wrath.

Religion plays a very inportant role in thai life. It's considered an essential pillar of society and considered to be a contributing factor in the moulding of a freedom loving and tolerant people. It finds expression in the Thai's kindness toward their fellow man regardless of race, creed or nationality. The study group in Comparative Religions I'm taking is inspiring and thought provoking. Topics such as prophets and founders, music and dance, mythology, rituals, and science and religion are giving me a new perspective on commonalities in world religions despite their surface differences. Religious observance is practiced everyday here. It still astounds me during the early morning rush to see people on their way to work pause at a shrine and pay homage by displaying the prayer like greeting to Lord Buddah. While the national religion is Theravada Buddhism there is absolute freedom of religion - Islam, Christianity, Hinduism, Judiaism and other faiths are all practiced here.

Michel can be found in unlikely places when we're on one of our excursions. He'll find his way to get the photo whether it's capturing a Thai train steam engine or climbing difficult terrain to capture that captivating view- he enjoys our weekend travels, inspired by the sites of this country. He'll be off to work at one of Michelin's plants in China for a couple of weeks at the end of November. I look forward to my first trip to China when I join him there for 1 week.

Kelsey is preparing to do an internship at one of Bangkok's hotels in January. A 6 month internship is a component of the Hotel and Tourism Diploma program that she is taking. She now has two pets sharing her apartment. Gulliver and Cha Cha have become her much loved roommates.

We were thrilled to have Bill Denyar spend a week with us recently. In China on a work trip, he took the opportunity to visit with us. In the province of Kanchanaburi he took time to get aquainted with one of Thailand's elephant. I continue to stay involved in a number of activities which enable me the opportunity to learn as well as contribute. My involvement in WINGS a group that stands for Women Investigating and Nurturing Gifts and Skills provides me with an opportunity to network with other amazing women who wish to explore their values and work toward a greater cause. The Canada Club of Thailand women recently hosted a welcome back luncheon for all those returning or arrving in Bangkok following the summer hiatus. This small group of women are active supporting scholarships and children's charities, not to mention opportunities to learn more about the culture here and of course as Canadians do.... have fun together!

The Thai/Burma Border Consortium where I occasionally facilitate workshops will soon celebrate its 25th year of providing food, shelter and capacity building support to Burmese refugees along the border. It is hoped that in the years ahead changes will come about which will improve livelihoods for the approximately 140,000 Burmese refugees.

It is sincerely hoped that that new path will lead to policy changes, allowing the refugees to live more dignified and productive lives with more focus on self reliance and less international assistance.

A little rain never hampers an outing. A trip to an elephant show and a floating market with Mae from Hammonds Plains who was in Thailand visiting her sister Rosalie proved to be a "dance in the rain".

Bangkok - a city of contrasts. While modernization is well underway, the city tells a tale of a country that is still developing. As we take in life here, we're mindful of the gap that exists between the rich and poor. Street beggars are a familiar site although Thailand is making strides to improve self reliance and working to improve the lives and to change a culture of street begging. Street dogs go about their business of survival touching at our heart strings, yet we feel a sense of awe and respect for their ability to survive despite major injuries and illnesses.

The chaotic pace of a city on the move and the traditional lifestyle of the Thai people is present in this city. Venturing outside of the city one glimpses a truly unique and colourful portrait that we have come to savour.

Until next time,

Blessings

Go well

Kelsey, Michel and Dorothy

Life in the Kingdom

Sawaadee kha,

The rainy season is upon us. Daily downpours which last for about 30 minutes are witnessed daily. The torrential rain causes traffic in the city to come to a snails pace... then the sun arrives and the pace of life picks up speed. The rainy season ends in October when the "cool" season arrives with comfortable temperatures in the 25-27 degree range:) that usually lasts until the end of February. This is also the peak tourist season in Thailand.

As we enter into our last year in Thailand we're mindful about how we'll plan to spend our time on this last leg of this journey. I'm reminded how daunting things seemed when we arrived here two years ago. The sights, smells, way of life all seemed so alien to us. Yet in time we found our way and have come to appreciate with gratitute all that living in a foreign land has to offer. The opportunities we've had and all that we're learning continues to reshape us... as well as middle age:)

A recent trip to Cambodia and Angkor Wat was incredible. Angkor Wat is a beautiful and fascinating place. Made by the Khmer kings in a process that lasts almost 4 centuries, this magnificent area had been abandoned and hidden by the forest. Re-discovered by a french man ( it figures..) about 150 years ago. There are two great complexes of ancient temples in Southeast Asia, one at Bagan in Burma, the other at Angkor in Cambodia. The temples of Angkor, built by the Khmer civilization between 802 and 1220 AD, represent one of humankind's most astonishing architectural achievements. From Angkor the Khmer kings ruled over a vast domain that reached from Vietnam to China to the Bay of Bengal. The structures one sees at Angkor today include more than 100 stone temples. We were awestruck with the intricate carvings and the symbolic representation of the Hindu cosmology. It was also interesting to see the changes in the design when the ruling King decided that the Gods of Hinduism had failed him and Buddhism became prevalent in the construction of the temples. The evolution of the change was seen as the Hindu decorations and deities were replaced by Buddhist carvings, statues, and other art.

One of the tucked away spots in Bangkok is its Indian neighbourhood, known as "Little India". This hidden spot in Bangkok's is full of food, interesting sights, and an impression of what it's like to walk down an Indian street. On entering the lane, there are food stalls selling hot snacks; while posters of Hindu gods sit alongside the shops. The sights and sounds of India are everywhere, as locals go about their daily business. We sampled some of the Indian dishes and visited a beautiful gurdwara, or Sikh temple. This is said to be the largest gurdwara outside India, and is built of opulent white marble. We were made to feel welcome. When visiting the temple we removed our shoes and covered our heads with the customary yellow scarves that were provided to us.

We discovered that Sikhism is one of the younger faiths of the world, as compared with religions like Hinduism, Buddhism, Judaism, Christianity or Islam. It is a monotheistic faith, preaching the existence of only one God, and teaching ideals that may be universally accepted today : honesty, compassion, humility, piety, social commitment, and most of all tolerance for other religions. In my quest to learn about other world religions and my budding interest in "interfaith dialogue" I'm looking forward to participating in a study group in October on Comparative Religions.

About 80 kms outside of Bangkok in a place famous for its mango orchards we came upon a temple ground known for it's inhabitants - Bats or flying fox. When we looked up we could see dark things hanging from the trees. Just about every tree in the temple compound had bats hanging from the branches. We learned they ate fruit such as mango, tamarind and guava. They also ate the fruit and young leaves from the sacred bhodi trees in the temple. This is the tree that Siddharta Gautama became enlightened underneath when he became the Buddah. Apparently a monk indicated that the bats never touch the mangoes in the orchards in the temple and instead go to the neighboring district to eat:)

When visiting the south we ventured upon a rubber plantation. Rubber is one of Thailand's leading exports, third to shrimp and rice. In 1991 Thailand replaced Malaysia as the top producer and exporter of natural rubber products. This has been the result of a re-planting program. A majority of Thailand's rubber plantations are located in the southern part of the country.

Recently we enjoyed a day out with some friends to visit an orchid farm, fruit orchard and lotus farm. Thailand is famous for is orchid species. There are more than 1,000 species of orchids in Thailand, and these come in a dazzling range of colours - Probably the most beautiful are the white, the bright yellow and the brick - red orchids. The white orchid is highly prized because of its extreme rarity in the wild. Few have ever been discovered in the wild, and it is only through the efforts of Thai orchid nursery keepers to multiply it, that this gorgeous bloom can be seen. Many of the other orchid varieties are easy to grow, and abundant at any time of the year, thanks to the skills of the numerous Thai horticulturists. Typical of these common orchids is the violet bloom that is often given to visitors, for example to passengers travelling on Thai Airways international flights. Orchids bouquets are easily purchased from Bangkok street vendors for 30 -100 baht ( $1.00 - $3.00.)

The tropical climate and naturally fertile geography of Thailand is the home of some of the world's most exotic and delicious tropical fruits. The red hairy fruit in the photo are Rambutan. The flesh is white, succulent and has a large seed. They are widespread in all Southeast Asian countries, and Thai rambutans are grown particularly in the East and South. In Thailand , there are two varieties of rambutan, a fruit with a thick and hairy outer skin. "Ngoh Rong Rian" has sweet, succulent flesh that clings to the seed, while the oval-shaped Si Chompoo, the "pink" rambutan, has crisp, white flesh that comes off the seed easily. Rambutan orchards are commonly found in the provinces of the South.

Tailors and fabric shops are plentiful in Bangkok. A seamstress can whip up an outfit to meet your wish for any occasion within a couple of days. Famed for their swift sewing and competent craftsmanship, Bangkok tailors are trusted and chosen by many to have their clothes made the way they prefer. These birds were enjoying the feast from the yummy morsels uncovered when this rice farmer was turning his field. In the central area of Thailand it is common to see tractors doing the work that the buffalo does in the north.

Kelsey has settled into her apartment near the school she attends. Recently "Gulliver" joined her household.

Michel has taken on a couple of additional projects at Michelin. True to himself, he doesn't let work take over his life, however occasionally he'll be heard to lament " Work is beginning to interfere in my personal life" lol. His ability to organize and manage multiple projects is amazing!

Although the weekends and any holiday we have are our travel time, life continues to hum along in Bangkok. While Kelsey spends her week at school learning about hospitality and tourism and Michel at work, I am blessed with the privilege of engaging in work and activities that are personally "life giving". My work with the Thai Burma Border Consortium, teaching English, attending lectures on South East Asian culture, religion and history and occasionally volunteering as tour guide at the National Museum inpire me. Recently I picked up a short term project with International Child Support, a Netherlands based NGO who works with "underprivileged" women and children in Northern Thailand. As Vice President of the Canada Club of Thailand, my role this year is to provide leadership in organizing the fundraising event which raises the funds for the charities we support. Should be interesting indeed!!! Thank goodness I'll have the help of a group of Canadian women who are very talented in this area.

Due to the flu virus, the orphanage remains closed to volunteers. While I miss the children there I look forward to getting back soon.

We're excited about some of our Canadian friends upcoming visits with us this year. On Sept. 11th we're looking forward to Bill Denyars visit. In China on a visit he decided to take a week and come to see us. Michel is already planning to introduce him to the motorcycle taxi in Bangkok..... ( he'll be fine Dawn!) Stay tuned on the next blog posting for photos!!

Well that's all from here for now.... Until next time.

Blessings....Go well

Michel, Kelsey and Dorothy