Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Life in the Kingdom

Sawwaadii Pii Mai Kha - Happy New Year Although there are three New Year celebrations here ( Jan. 1st as well as the Chinese New Year later this month and the Thai New Year in April) each one is adorned with great festivity and merriment.
The political situation has calmed and the new government appears to offer hope and integrity. From our standpoint the general populus seem willing to give them a chance to try to deal with the issues the country faces- at least for a time.
The weather here is unusually cooler. Temperatures are in the 23 - 25 degree range causing many of the local residents to wear winter jackets, wool hats, mittens and oh yes.... socks with their sandals. A common greeting on the streets is "yen mai"... meaning cold eh! Even foreigners from northern climates , present company included have been known to don our sweater and long pants:)
During the holiday we drove to the north of Thailand to Chiang Rai. The province contains Thailand's northernmost point at Mae Sai which is well known for its crisp mountain scenery, and hilltribes. North Chiang Rai falls within the region known as the Golden Triangle, the area where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos converge.

The infamous Golden Triangle was once the centre of all opium poppy growing in the country, Here, the illicit crops were grown, processed to heroin and then smuggled out. It has since been replaced by the small tourist village along the banks of the Mekhong river as well as cash crop agriculture initiatives to replace opium growing in the hilltribe villages .

The area's legacy of opium production, usage and trading - which continued right up until the 1980's, is well documented. The golden triangle was once the source for over half the world's illegal herion; route of crime and corruption from Asia to Africa to Europe and America.

The approximately one dozen hill tribes form a majority in Thailand's northern regions. There are numerous social and cultural differences between the hill tribals and the majority Thai population. Group members speak multiple languages; they are primarily animists in contrast to the majority Buddhist Thais, and they follow different social customs. The hill tribes are seeking equal civil rights and status, greater economic opportunities, and the protection of their culture and lifeways. Development programs have included the promotion of tourism and local crafts in tribal areas and the replacement of opium production with other crops such as cabbage. However, tourism is often viewed as treating them as "spectacles" rather than helping to ensure their way of life.

Before we returned to Bangkok we visited the province of Nan. We had never heard of the Mlabri Tribe before we embarked on our journey in the mountains. No one really knows how long the Mlabri had been in Thailand. The Mlabri are a hunting and gathering nomadic tribe. Their belief system forbids them to own and cultivate lands. The Mlabri number system only goes up to ten. They had no words for anything after ten. Since most of the jungles in Thailand are fast diminishing, the Mlabri people have to work as laborers on other hilltribes' farms in exchange for food and money. Only about three hundred Mlabris are left at this point. The Mlabri live under shelters made of bamboo and banana leaves. Traditionally they wore banana leaves, but nowadays they are given clothes by the Thai government to wear. There are about seventeen Mlabri families living in Thailand. We were greeted by the tribe elder upon our arrival. Following his greeting he returned to his hut only to only to appear a few minutes later wearing a long bright pink coat.

Near Chiang Mai in the north there is one of the most amazing and stunning temples we had ever seen in Thailand. Officially called the “Chapel of Wat Rong Khun” it has become to be known simply as “The White Temple”. This is a form of architecture which you don’t often see in temple grounds. The attention to detail is remarkable with beautiful artwork. To reach the temple you have to cross a bridge which symbolizes transition from the cycle of life to the land of the Buddha. In front of the bridge is a small semicircle, representing the world. The large semicircle with demon king’s fangs embodies passion and desire and the need to throw away passion and desire into the mouth of the demon king to clean ourselves before going inside the main building. On each rail of the bridge are 8 monsters, totaling 16 monsters representing 16 types of passion over a pit of hell. Down below there are sculptures of people who are I think trying to escape from hell. Inside the temple is a beautiful coloured mural of the Buddha. Apparently the Thai artist wanted it to be like a house of the Buddha with white color representing His purity and white glass representing his wisdom shining all over the earth and the universe. Two of Thailand's popular festivals were held recently. We travelled to Surin a city in the northeast to experience the annual Elephant Roundup. The people here are well recognized for their skill in capturing and rounding up wild elephants as well as training and taming them. Surin is often known as the 'province of elephants'. Once a year, they all head back to their native province for the big occasion. Seeing them walking the streets enjoying the buffet provided by the locals was certainly a spectacle. This year, more than 250 elephants took part in this event. The Elephant Round-up displays the amazing grace, strength and intelligence of this huge creature in games of soccer, log carrying, and the tug-of-war against human teams. The talent and playfulness of the Thailands national symbol is apparent. The highlight of the show is the mock battle, which shows the talent and strength of this lovable animal. In times past, elephants played a key role in wars against invading armies. Previously, the elephant round-up was a state ceremony presided over only by the King. Prayers and citations were devised for the ceremony.
Another event we enjoyed viewing held closer to Bangkok in the town of Lopburi was the Annual monkey buffet.
Every year, the town of Lopburi in Thailand hosts this special outdoor feast. The 600 guests of honour climb all over the food, steal treats from each other, and toss their leftovers onto the ground. After the meal, some of the guests show their gratitude by pulling hair and stealing earrings from the hosts while others make love in public. They are Lopburi's blessing and its bane. According to legend, the hero of the Ramayana epic rewarded his friend and ally, Hanuman the Monkey King, with what is now Lopburi. Centuries later, monkeys still rule the area around the town's two most sacred sites: the picturesque Khmer ruins and the nearby shrine. Although the monkeys live in the city and are not afraid of humans, they are certainly not domesticated. From their base in the shrines, they cross streets to climb on parked cars and groom each other on storefront awnings. They are at home scampering about the ancient Khmer ruins as they are scrambling up and down the jungle of electric wires, window grates and TV antennas. It looks like living or working in this monkey zone is both fun and trying. Michel was found to have more than one monkey on his back - literally as they seemed drawn to his camera back pack- checking out whether there were more scrumptuous treats hidden inside. Spiritually, the monkeys offer the citizens of Lopburi wonderful opportunities to tum boon (make merit). According to Thai beliefs, donating food to the monkeys is a perfect way to accrue good karma.
Before the holiday we attended a Michelin Christmas party at the beach in Rayon. The whole resort was reserved for Michelin employees which was a good thing as the Karaoke blared throughout the night. We indulged on seafood and thai food and had a blast participating in some games. After a 3 week break Kelsey returned to school. She and James enjoyed welcoming the New Year in Pattaya, a beach town. James (in the hat) who a B Boy dancer in his spare time recently with his dance troupe won second place in a dance contest. In the following photo they are seen receiving their prize of 50,000 baht ( 1,700 Cdn )
Michel returned to work after a 2 week holiday. As well as his present job he will be taking on some new responsibilities at one of Michelin's partner plants. I have resumed my french classes as well as my teaching and facilitation work. The Welfare Committee of the Canadian Club of Thailand was very busy during December as we visited and presented gifts to the groups and organizations for underprivledged children that the club supports. Christmas was a wonderful opportunity to play Santa. Thai children are very polite and are taught at an early age to wai ( prayer like gesture of hello) when spoken to by an older person.
Pictured below is one of the regular orphanage volunteers. John and his wife Marion moved to Bangkok from Kenya and he is welcomed presence at the orphange. He is seen here holding 13 year old Paul who has lived at the orphange all his life. Although Paul is not able to talk or walk he demonstrates his enthusiasm when we arrive with a loud shrill and a huge smile! Thailand is not only famous for its food but also is known for its beautiful women. The beauty of Thai women is commonly used in advertising and marketing products. At a recent Photo Fair they were busy promoting and charming the audience with their appeal and sexy outfits. I wonder who sold more equipment - Canon or Nikon :)
Following our return from our Christmas vacation we had the pleasure of having Keri Pynch visit. Keri is from our hometown in Cambridge Nova Scotia and teaches in Korea. She stopped by to visit during her vacation in Thailand. Although a short visit we had fun doing some sightseeing and here she is seen making friends with a Thai ladyboy ( Katoey)
Father Christmas promotes safe sex in Thailand. This mannequin is made out of condoms and can be found in " Cabbages and Condoms Restaurants " in several locations around Thailand. These restaurants are operated by the Population and Community Development Association. Instead of receiving a mint upon finishing a meal all patrons receive a condom! All proceeds are used to fund social development programs. Until next time wishing you all love and blessings.
Go well
Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey