Thursday, April 29, 2010

Life in the Kingdom and Burma's Treasures - Special Blog Edition

Sawaadee kha or should I say Mingala baa ( Hello in Burmese.) As the protests continue in Bangkok we are safe and well. Michel has recently left on a 4 week work trip to Bridgewater so as I write this he is in Canada. He'll return to Bangkok at the end of May and we'll then make our final arrangements for our trip home before embarking on our next move to China. In our adopted home here in Thailand the tension on the street in Bangkok becomes more intense. We felt a need to escape from this for awhile and share with you a special edition of our blog and some photos on Thailand's neighbour, Myanmar or Burma ( as I prefer to call it.) We recently returned from a trip there and were incredibly moved by the culture and people. We hope you enjoy our reflections and photos on this intriguing land and people.
Boycotted by many Westerners because of the political situation- a dictatorship and military regime that is unresponsive to democratic forces- Burma today is building its tourist infrastructure as well as attracting more visitors to this charming and friendly third world country. We were mindful of these things when making a decision on whether we should visit and came to our personal decision that even though we dislike the current military regime, we could have more of a positive impact by visiting the country rather than by boycotting it. Following our visit, this was reinforced more within us as we saw the benefits to the local economy when funds and awareness are provided through tourism to the local people. Perhaps the more people who visit Burma, the more likely change will take place for the better. While I explored and asked my own political questions during our visit we have preferred not to make this blog our personal political statement and instead a blog that will focus more on the culture and everyday life of the people and culture captured in Michel's photos.

It's a place where time seems to have stood still and one feels like they've entered a time warp. Astrology, horoscopes and religion continue to be an important part of everyday life. There are challenges in traveling in the country due to poor road infrastructure so we hired a local private English guide to assist us in finding our way, accessing air travel and accomodations. We also gained important insights from someone who has lived in the country, about its culture and people.

We began our journey in Yangon, the former capital. Yangon still displays some of the colonial buildings left over from the British who ruled Burma for 100 years. Burma received their independence from the British following WWII. The infrastructure deteriorated over the years through poor maintenance and did not keep up with the growing population, however due to more open market policies being developed it is now beginning new infrastructure building.

Yangon is populated with many different races of people such as Myanmars, Chinese, Indians and other ethnic groups. Although Burmese is the official language, communication in English was not a big challenge as English remains entrenched in the Burmese educational system, and is a required subject from Kindergarden onward.

The history of Yangon is intertwined with the history of the Shwedagon Pagoda. Wherever one may be in Yangon the golden form of the Shwedagon will be seen on the skyline rising above the foliage of the tropical trees. This pagoda materialized in Buddhist history over 2500 years ago and over the years has been rebuilt until it reached its present height of 326 feet. It has 10 sections. Hundreds of lamps surround the base and form an elaborate offering to the Buddah. During our visit, ceremonies were held there as young novice monks were entering the monkhood.

From Yangon we flew to Bagan ( travel is by air which is well organized since the road infrastructure is not paved and traveling any distance by car - mostly 4 wheel drives would take a long time.) Once a city of over 200,000 today's Bagan is a small sleepy town of 20,000 people. It is a serene place where over 2000 - 14th century temple/pagoda ruins dot the landscape. It is a place where one where can go about the village in horse drawn cart or by bullock cart.

We explored an early morning market where an incredible myriad of food aromas, colours and activities aroused our senses. Nuns wearing pink were shopping for dry products to take to the monastery for cooking meals. Burmese women and children are often seen wearing a face paste called Thanika. Not only used as a sun screen , women believe it keeps their complexion young and serves as a whitener. The paste is made from a specific tree bark and is mixed with water and applied.
While watching the sunset from one of Bagan's breathtaking temples I was struck with the wonder and beauty of this land and left with a peace that was beyond....
Bagan is also the centre for Burma's lacquer ware production. Most lacquerware found in shops througout the country comes from Bagan's factories and workshops. Many of the factories have been in business for generations and produce beautiful lacquer bowls, plates, serving trays, tables, furniture and accessories. The best quality lacqerware are works of art and the best pieces are made with 12 to 24 pieces of lacquer, with pieces taking 6 to 9 months to complete.

During a drive to Mount Poppa ( 45km took us 1.5 hours) we saw local villagers on their way to market, collecting their water from a reservoir and we witnessed saffron robed monks collecting their early morning alms. Mount Poppa is built on a dormant volcano and is considered the abode of spirits ( Nats.) It is an important worship centre and a a major pilgrimage destination for locals. We climbed the 777 steps accompanied by local children who were fascinated with my blonde hair and intriqued by touching the blonde hair on my arms :) Spirit worship is still an important belief of the Burmese people while at the same time they hold a strong belief in Buddhism’s teaching on “karma”. They realize that they have to go through a life cycle—birth, growing up, reaching adulthood, aging, the prospect of illness and eventual death (and possible reincarnation). They know that in passing each stage of life they will also experience hardships brought about by nature or circumstance—drought, famine, flooding, pestilence and unemployment. Country-dwellers have devised folk explanations to make these events more understandable. They realize that all things happen due to a cause and that man and woman are responsible for their own actions—they believe in good and bad karma. At the same time, the power of the spirit world is used to explain such events as unknown disease that takes the life of a family member, or a phenomenon of nature. Honoring these spirits and keeping the bad spirits contented is important.

Our next locale was a flight to Inle Lake . We traveled on a traditional long tail boat in this picturesque delightful place located approximately 900 meters above sea level in the hills of Shan State. It was easy to fall in love with this place. Home of the Intha Tribe, this area is known for its lake of fisherman who row with their legs, floating gardens, markets and temples. There is no road access. We visited a silk factory and paper umbrella making factory. Traditional methods are used.. living off the land, utilizing with care the abundant natural resources. What a joy it was on my birthday, accompanied by our guide and the Burmese people to have the honor of performing a Buddhist birthday custom of releasing a fish. Back at our hotel, Michel had arranged with the gracious manager to have a cake ( not a easy feat since cake was nowhere to be found.) and of course I enjoyed sharing my birthday custom of "nose greasing" as a symbol and hope for good luck in the coming year. Michel was happy to obliged by smearing my nose with butter to the delight of the locals. Throughout our entire stay, the graciousness, kindness and accomodating nature of the people went beyond expectation. The hotels were lovely and the food a delight. Our last day was spent back in Yangon where we the city was caught up in the annual Water Festival. Wooden stages were erected equipped with water hoses throughout the city where people met and engaged in soaking each other. We also took a 3 hr. trip on a local delapidated train in the city where we witnessed urban poverty and the struggles of the Burmese people living in make shift shantys who survive day to day on about 3000 kyats ( pronounced chat) equivalent to 3 USD.

It is impossible for these images to fully covey our experience and the senses that were heightened as we traveled in Burma. It was certainly one of the most captivating places we've visited.

We'll end by saying ....It was an extraordinary experience!

Go well

Michel, Dorothy and Kelsey

Monday, April 5, 2010

Life in the Kingdom

Sawaadee kha,
As we begin to write this, it's the Easter weekend. Interesting when one lives in a different culture and lives amongst such a visible expression of faith such as Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam, our own "Easter" expression is somewhat stretched. This weekend we did a early morning pilgrimage to an ancient 10th century Hindu monastery in northeast Thailand. This temple stands on a mountain of an extinct volcano. Twice a year at sunrise the suns rays pass straight through 15 perfectly aligned doorways of Phanom Rung. This spectacular solar related event bears religious significance in the Hindu faithful. This religious significance of the sunrise continued througout the days with folk music, dancing and storytelling.
The political demonstrations continue in Bangkok. The atmosphere is almost "carnival like" as the "Red Shirts" protest the apparent elitism of the present government. Representing the "Common Thai" the Red Shirts indicate they will continue the demonstratons until the government resigns and calls a new election. The government however retorts that it would be devastating to the economy if they should resign and have offered to continue negotiating with the protesters . To date it's all been civilized however like the Thai weather things are beginning to heat up... we'll wait and see! Politics in Thailand could never be called boring :)
Since our last blog update we were pleased to have more of our friends visit from NS. Following an enjoyable visit with Brenda and Randy Crozsman, we welcomed Gail Kerr-Crofton and Elva Heyge. Traveling through various areas of Thailand was on the menu . Speaking of menus, time was afforded sampling local Thai cuisine including the delicious street food. The Frenchman behind the wheel exposing his french-thai driving skills took us to the South to visit scenic Krabi,to the West to Khanchanaburi and Sangklaburi as well as provinces in Central Thailand. A trip to the World UNESCO historical site of Luang Prabang in Laos was also on the inteniary where an early morning wake up ( 5:30am) saw us on the streets observingand paying respect to hundreds of monks collecting alms. Thank goodness for the wonderful french coffee afterward:) Along with the magnificent temples a part of the old town's appeal are the many French provincial style houses.
A trip along the Mekong River and driving along a country road one feels like they gone back in time. Laotian possess a strongly developed sense of courtesy and respect and much of their culture is strongly influenced by Buddhist thinking and attitudes. Acceptance is their worldview. Events, for better or worse, are related to one's previous incarnation and are therefore accepted without challenge or emotion. Like the Thai "mai pen rai" the Laos people have a similar expression meaning " no problem" or "never mind". This expression sometimes frustrates Westerners who have a worldview that problems are there to be solved, not to be accepted.
During our trip with Elva and Gail to Sangklaburi in the western part of Thailand we stayed in a scenic cottage overlooking one of Thailand's oldest wooden bridges. Courtesy of a local boatsman we enjoyed an early morning journey to view an underwater temple.
Bruce and Heather Tupper dropped in for a quick hello and a brief visit en route to Borneo. Unfortunately I was away working on a project in Chiang Mai however Michel enjoyed their company and took them on a tour of Bangkok's canals.
Club Canada's Snowball was a success. In celebration of the Winter Olympics the evening was jam packed with fun. The Snowball is Canada Club of Thailand's major fundraiser in support of our charities. As Chairperson of this event it was indeed fulfilling to see the results of many months of work by all of us who worked on the committee. More importantly we were successful in raising the amount of funds needed to continue our work supporting women and children who live in impoverished circumstances.
We celebrated Kelsey's 21st birthday with a delicious Italian meal at one of our favourite nearby restaurants. She is busy doing her 6 month Internship at The Four Seasons Hotel on her way to graduating from a program in International Tourism and Hospitality.
Michel is finishing his term here with Michelin. He plans to head to Bridgewater NS for 6 weeks at the beginning of May to prepare for a Michelin assignment he'll be doing in Northern China. While he is away, Kelsey and I will stay in Bangkok to complete some of our commitments. We have decided to take the assignment in Northern China and expect our move will happen at the end of August. We look foward to our return home to the Annapolis Valley mid July for our holiday before opening the next chapter in this "book of life".
My work continues to inspire me. At the present time I'm working on a project with an NGO in northern Thailand. This organization works in communites buiding capacity and their primary focus is social justice and gender equality issues. Their efforts are aimed at people harmed by poverty, oppression and violence in various forms, regardless of their faith, skin colour or gender. Where the opportunity arises , I continue to volunteer teaching English.
We enjoy visiting border towns and the Cambodian border town of Aranyaprathet was no exception. Spending the weekend observing the trade with Cambodia and Thailand, chating with the locals and browsing through some of the local markets was a highlight of a recent weekend excursion.
There are 54 species of hornbills worldwide. They are found only in tropical forest of Africa and Asia. Thailand has 13 species. Michel has been fascinated with the hornbill. Accompanied by a guide who has worked and studied the hornbill for 20 years he was privledged to observe and photograph this creature of such bizarre appearance and complex behaviour patterns. With their characteristic horn-like casques atop their beaks, hornbills resemble no other bird species. In theory, Thailand's hornbills are protected by the Wildlife Preservation Act, but in reality the remoteness of their habitat makes it a difficult law to enforce. All of Thailand's species are considered endangered.
Now that temperatures in Bangkok reach 35-37degrees an escape to the beach is always a welcome respite. One of the places not on the tourist radar is Trat. Trat is Thailand's southeastern-most province. With its long white sandy beaches it offers delightful scenery and is a major fruit growing and fishing area. One of the famous Thai dishes found in Trat is soft crab in red curry- a yummy dish that we enjoyed as we watched the ocean from a bamboo restaurant .
Songkran the Thai New Year is coming up. This is one of the biggest holidays in Thailand. It's also a time when many service workers in Bangkok go home to assist their families in the rice harvesting. This festival is known as the water festival . Thai people will frolick about dousing people with water as a symbol of washing away and cleansing for the new year. Actually their sense of "sanook" ( fun) is in high gear and for three days buckets of water and water guns are everywhere. We'll be traveling to Burma ( Myanmar) on April 9th for 9 days. We're looking forward to exploring this beautiful third world country. We'll share our insights and photographs on our next blog.
In the meantime..... we send you many blessings.
Go well
Kelsey, Michel and Dorothy