Life in the Kingdom

Sawwaadee kha...... As I write another update on this blog I'm reminded on how much we've learned and experienced this past year. Although at times the cultural changes and adjustments have been challenging, we've grown and changed in ways we could never have imagined. "Mai Pen Rai" has been a statement and a learned way of being in situations where in the past would have caused us distress. Mai Pen Rai translated and used frequently by the Thais means don't worry..it doesn't matter... it's not that important in the broader picture . This statment I have come to learn sums up the life here. People who have lived here for many years have told us that it's only recently that one would see a Thai get angry. Getting angry would mean losing face and this is a very important value dear to the Thais. Known as a land of smiles the Thais smile for many reasons... not all of them because they are happy. The challenge is to discover what the smile means.

Thailand's people are made up of a diversity who migrated to South East Asia through trade routes and then settled here bringing their religion and culture. As a result its rich culture is a result of centuries of ethnic absorption, adaptation and acceptance. The food, language, beliefs are as a result of this absorption.

Upon reflection and personal observation the Thai people could be considered realists. Over 95% practice Theravada Buddhism ( harmoniously combined with Hinduism and Animism.) They believe in Karma. Every action both good and evil that occurs in one's lifetime produces energy that will continue for eternity. By burning incense and performing other religious acts at a temple, and by dropping coins in a beggars bowl, aiding the poor, offering fresh food to the monks, making merit during one's cycle of life, the Buddhists believes he or she will reach the final stage in the earthly quest to reach a paradise called Nirvana. I've been fascinated how my Christian background works harmoniously with other religions and am thankful for this god given opportunity to witness and explore. As I have mentioned in past blogs- one of my joys is my weekly visits with the children at the orphanage for the disabled. Occasionally we are able to take the children out on a field trip. They are always so happy to be out and visit some of the sites around Bangkok. The smile on Petmonie's face lights up the day with her incredible beauty.

Recently a group from the Nova Scotia Community College did a quick visit to Bangkok on route to Phuket, Vietnam and China. Although they were in Bangkok only 2 days we were pleased to have visited with them. My friend and former colleague Bill Howse are seen catching up in this photo.

To gain a better understanding of Thai history and culture, recently I completed a training program to qualify as a Museum Volunteer. This training in Buddhism, Hinduism, Animism and Thailand history has inspired me to learn more. Together with my friend Jo, we did our first museum tour as guides recently. It was exciting and interesting and we look forward to guiding visitors through the museum on occasion. Michel and Kelsey have been learning in the process due to my new fascination and curiosity with Thailand sculpure and images.

Recently we spent a few days in the former Thailand capital of Sukothai. The ruins are extensive and impressive, and are testimony to a period in Thai history from the mid thirteenth to the mid fifteenth period. This time in Thai history is so important that it is known as the 'cradle of thai culture' and is known as 'Thailand's Golden Age'. One of my favourite images from this period is the Walking Buddah ( seen here in this photo). This image has all of the attributes of this spiritual time in history. The cyclone in Burma has touched us throughout the world. In following this tragedy and attempts at aid and rebuilding, we have been saddened by their losses and encouraged by the resilency of the people of Burma. This past week , I visited two refugee camps on the Burma border. I heard ( through an interpreter) from some families who have lost everything and came to the camp for refuge. The people in this picture had many family members who died. The woman in the middle had two children ages 2 and 6 who were swept away in the cyclone. The emptiness and loss in her eyes stays with me. The wife and children of the men in this photo also died. The children in the camps play freely. They are children expressing delight and curiosity. These children were our constant companions, following us around the camp, playfully getting our attention:) I'm mindful of the different worlds we live in and our response to lifes' situations. The people of Burma have lived with incredible loss. Their faith and belief enables them to move on with an understanding that life is suffering and one must go on. As I listened to their stories and begin to understand their cultural beliefs I began to see that it enables them to cope and live... and.. to my limited understanding there is truth there!

Kelso ( her nickname given by her schoolmates.. nicknames are very popular here) has adopted many of the Thai youth way of dress. She loves going to Thai dance clubs. School is soon finished for the year and she has received great marks. An interest in a Thai boy at her school has kept her motivated perhaps ?!

Michel likes his "sanook'... of course I mean fun. Work at Michelin with the "thai boys" is fulfilling and he enjoys any spare time outside with his backpack and camera. He's off to China at the end of June for one week on a Michelin trip.

We'll be home for vacation on July 13th. Until then .... blessings and go well ( bpai dii.)

With love,

Dorothy, Michel and Kelso

Life in the Kingdom

Saw wa dee pee mai ( Happy New Year )... Thailand celebrated the New Year on April 14th. Songkran is the traditional New Year and is an occasion for family reunions. Paying respect to ones elders is an important part of the day. Thais pay respect to their elders by pouring scented water over the palms of their hands. The elders in return wish the young people good luck ( chook-dii) and prosperity. This is done by smearing talcum powder on their face. Songkran is also known as "water festival" as people believe that water will wash away their bad luck. Throughout the day people joyfully splash water on each other. Michel,Kelsey and I joined in the fun equipped with our water pistols.

During this time of the year many of Bangkok's service workers return to their family homes in the north to help with the rice planting. These valuable workers keep the city functioning and their absence is clearly felt.

To begin the rice planting season a Ploughing Ceremony is held near the Grand Palace in Bangkok. This ceremony is thought to date back to the times of the Buddha more than 2500 years ago. His Majesty the King appoints a Lord of the Festival (Phya Raek Nah) to carry out the rites. The Phya Raek Nah chooses from three 'panungs' (a long cloth worn about the hips). If he chooses the longest one, there will be little rain during the coming year. The shortest cloth means plenty of rain, while the medium-length panung denotes average rainfall. A procession follows with sacred bulls, festooned in flowers, drawing a red and gold plough. Green-costumed drummers, Brahmans chanting and blowing conch shells, umbrella bearers and four 'nang thepi' or consecrated women, carrying gold and silver baskets filled with rice seed, proceed with the plough. Once the bulls have turned a few furrows, they are presented with seven different foods and drinks - rice, beans, maize, hay, sesame, water and liquor. Whichever the bulls choose to eat or drink should be plentiful during the coming year. Then the rice seed is scattered over the newly turned earth. Once the ceremony is over, hundreds of people will rush to the spot in the hope of gathering some of the precious rice grains to ensure a good crop of rice in the next season. During the holiday and to escape the heat of Bangkok and temperatures reaching 40 degrees- we took a vacation in the south of Thailand to Krabi. Krabi is known for its gorgeous beaches, crystal clear water, towering mountains and great food. We had a wonderful time. Kelsey and I did some rock climbing under the guidance of a competent teacher. Krabi’s limestone cliffs are a heaven for rock-climbing . Routes follow limestone crags, steep, pocketed walls, overhangs and hanging stalactites. We found it to be an exhiliarating experience When we reached the top of the rock , the feeling of accomplishment was unbeatable!! Michel explored of the islands near Krabi and did his own rock climbing enjoying the photo taking opportunties present in Krabi's breathtaking landscape. Here is a sample of the fruits of his labour at the peak of one of Krabi's cliffs.

Recently I spent 1 week in Northern Thailand visiting 2 refugee camps on the Thailand-Burma border. I continue my part time work as a Management Consultant for the Thai Burma Border Consortium and a visit to the camps gave me a better sense of the work they do in the field. I heard ( with the help of an interpreter) stories from families who have escaped the atrocities and abuses in Burma ( Mynamar) imposed by the military Junta. The daily struggle for survival in their homeland and threats to their livelihood has resulted in over 150,000 ethnic minorities from rural communities taking refuge in camps in Thailand. As I observe, reflect and question I'm left with many questions and feelings about the situation as I learn first hand about the harm inflicted due to the abuse. I'm also left with questions and concerns about the role and involvement of the international community to protect these victims of mass atrocities. My 'political as well as my humanitarian drive' has kicked in!

The children in this photo were relatively new arrivals to the camp. They enjoyed getting their photo taken and were curious about the blonde, white woman walking around the camp.

I met a family who will resettle in Toronto Canada on April 21st. Canada is one of the countries that has agreed to resettle some of the refugees. The father and his family ( 7 children) have lived in the camp for 10 years. This family's farm was destroyed in Burma to make way for a highway. He fled with his family to the refugee camp when he could no longer support his family. For the past 7 years he has taught at a school located on the camp. Through an interpreter we talked about Canada... and yes, he asked about the snow:) When I asked him about his hopes for his family in Toronto- he said he wanted his children to get an education and have opportunities. His 16 year old daughter told me she dreamed to be a doctor and in Canada she would have this opportunity. My Canadian pride 'filled me' at that moment. Some of his children have never known life outside of the refugee camp. Just imagine what a culture change is in store! I'd like to introduce you by photo to this family.

Steps are now being taken to help families making their homes in the camps develop self sustaining means to support themselves. Efforts to build capacity are underway however there are many challenges to solve. It was apparent to me that these victims of conflict are resilient survivors with a wealth of knowledge about the nature of threats and the psychology of the military. If you wish to learn more about the issues in Burma you can go to http://www.burmaissues.org/

The Canadian Club of Thailand is a woman's organization working to promote friendship and moral support to Canadian woman living in Thailand. As well as cultural and recreational activities, the club raises and distributes funds to support local orphanages and scholarships for young Thai women. I was pleased to accept a position on their Board as Chair of the Welfare Committee.

Michel's work continues to go well and he will be taking on some additional responsibilities shortly. His passion for photography has been heightened and he's regularly scouting for the next lens purchase.

Kelsey's school year is winding down with less than 30 days left. It's been a good year. She has been blessed with caring and diverse teachers from various countries. Her math teacher is from Pakistan and lived in Wolfville a few years ago where her husband taught at Acadia. Math in the past has been challenging for Kelsey however this year with little steps she is making good progress. She'll return to school here at the end of August to complete the credits required for graduation in the international system. Thailand and it's culture continues to open our eyes and stretch us amazingly. We're constantly witness to an incredible culture filled with scenes and experiences that appear so foreign to our western beliefs, yet with reminders of how much the western world continues to influence this developing nation.

We're now beginning to plan our visit home this summer. It looks likely we'll be back in the valley for 4 weeks around the middle of July. We're looking forward to seeing you.

Wishing you many blessings.

Until next time

Go well

Love Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey

Life in the Kingdom

Saw bai dee mai kha? ( How are you?) I'm getting a bit more comfortable using my Thai. The Thais appreciate it even if I can use a few words... they're more than happy to help me. We are gearing up for the hot season to begin. Thailand has three seasons - the rainy season from August to November, the dry season from December to April and then the HOT season from April to August. We're told to expect temperatures of 40 degrees. I think it's more fitting to say the three seasons consist of hot, hotter and hottest!!

One of the things we continue to discover is Thailands deep felt practices and attitudes that define it, sometimes very different from our western values. For example Thai culture considers loud speech or speaking your mind to be rude. Where we sometimes value directness, indirectness is valued in Thailand. I'm discovering through my facilitation work at the Thai Burma Refugee Consortuim that my facilitation method although welcomed is new. While I tend to use a participatory and experimental style , the method predominately used here is rote learning - facts are presented and students generally are not allowed to question their validity. This has resulted in a skill gap costing Thailand because it has a tendency to stifle creativity and free thinking. Change is happening though however the transition slow. Both Michel and I in our work attempt to understand and integrate those differences . As we learn about Thai history and discover how this culture is defined it helps us adapt. In the Thai work environment they work as collectivists meaning they value harmony, face saving and a WE identity. They have a high sense of personal obligation to the work group and frequently do not disinquish their own priorities and opinions from others in the group. They will not challenge their boss or speak up when the boss is in the room. It is very much a hierachal society and they will ask questions to find where you fit in the hierachy. I've discovered upon meeting a Thai they will be interested in knowing more about me by immediately asking me these questions- Where are you from? What do you do? And....... How old are you? I've learned to respond happily by asking " How old do you think I am"?.. then proceed to tell them and ask them the same?

The death of the King's older sister Princess Galyani resulted in a scaled down Chinese New Year in February. The royal palace issued a 30 day mourning period and requested that entertainment establishments cease merry making for that time period. It was startling to see millions of Bangokians wearing only black and white for that time period. The shops did well as they responded by updating their clothing inventory to meet the demand. Her Buddhist funeral is not scheduled to take place until November. That's the amount of time it will take to refurbish the royal chariot. Thais are very superstitious and even though her death was expected it is considered bad luck to begin the work on the funeral chariot until after a royal dies. In the meantime she lies in state at a compound in the Grand Palace.

If God is to be found in 'small places' - the orphanage is one of the places where this spirit dwells for me. One of the joys of living in Bangkok is the opportunity to meet people from all over the world. Many who give their time to volunteer throughout Thailand. In the photo below are my friends Marion from France, Mio from Japan, and Barb from the UK and of course the children who live at the orphanage - Nutscha, Petmonie, Paul, Dennis and Nontha. This orphanage is located in the Bangkok District of Pakreed and is the only orphanage for disabled children in Thailand. Most of these children will live the rest of their lives here.

This little boy did not have much opportunity to spend time outside of his crib. He was so thrilled when my friend Rosalie took him outside for a walk and some cuddling last week. Thailand has many beautiful beaches. Hua Hin is a beach town about a 1 hour drive. It's very popular as a weekend getaway.

Throughout rural Thailand there are many rice farmers and family operated rice farms. Thailand is the world's leading exporter of rice. Rice farming has formed the basis of the Thai economy since the very earliest days and is still the main occupation of the country’s farmer. Every region depends upon this traditional grain for sustenance and it is easy to observe the various cycles of rice farming . Though many parts of the country produce two and sometime three crops a year, the beginning of the season is usually thought to commence in May with the annual Royal Ploughing Ceremony, an ancient Brahmin ritual held across from the Grand Palace in Bangkok. A symbolic ploughing takes place at this colourful event, seeds are scattered, and prediction are made regarding the forth coming rainfall and harvest. At this time the rice seedlings are planted by hand, another endeavor in which everyone participates. The rains begin in earnest shortly afterwards, and for about three months the farmers have relatively little to do except maintaining the level of water in the fields of ripening rice and protecting it against birds and insect pests; many younger men go into the monkhood during this period, thus taking one of the traditional steps toward becoming a mature adult. By late November or early December, rice in the fields of the north and central plains is ready for harvest. Once again villagers go out in large groups, working with sickles from early morning until dusk . The cut rice is spread in the fields to dry for several days, then arranged in sheaves and taken to the family compound for threshing and winnowing, a task usually completed by January—though it will be later in the far south, which has two rainy season.

Kelsey, Michel and I recently returned from Cambodia. Cambodia is one the world's poorest countries. The people are in a rebuilding stage after the horrific genocide and war of the 70's. There is startling poverty. Children can be found begging on the streets often with a pimp or their mother watching. I was impressed with the resiliency and tenacity of the Cambodian people. I spent some time talking with the children. They were very happy to practice their English and I enjoyed our conversation. We met a couple of high school children who wanted to show us around and we paid them in exchange for their guiding service. They were interested in getting some suggestions from Kelsey on how to get to know 'foreign girls' and also asked about tips on dating foreign girls. Below is a photo of a family in Phnom Penh. The children approached Michel for money. Their mother stood in the background observing. When Michel offered to buy them dinner she quickly came over and accepted his offer with gratitude. We visited the Killing Fields - the place where the Khumer Rouge slaughtered 1.7 million of Cambodian people without mercy and buried them in mass graves during the 70's. You might have seen the movie "The Killing Fields". There is a stupa at the site which contains some of the skulls recovered from the graves to serve as a tribute and reminder of such an evil era.

Our experience in Cambodia both unsettled and amazed us. I know I felt a stirring there - in the midst of all the sadness - the culture possesses a pride, heartening hope and an energy unimaginable.

Until next time- Go well

With love,

Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey