Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Life in the Kingdom

Sawwaadii Pii Mai Kha - Happy New Year Although there are three New Year celebrations here ( Jan. 1st as well as the Chinese New Year later this month and the Thai New Year in April) each one is adorned with great festivity and merriment.
The political situation has calmed and the new government appears to offer hope and integrity. From our standpoint the general populus seem willing to give them a chance to try to deal with the issues the country faces- at least for a time.
The weather here is unusually cooler. Temperatures are in the 23 - 25 degree range causing many of the local residents to wear winter jackets, wool hats, mittens and oh yes.... socks with their sandals. A common greeting on the streets is "yen mai"... meaning cold eh! Even foreigners from northern climates , present company included have been known to don our sweater and long pants:)
During the holiday we drove to the north of Thailand to Chiang Rai. The province contains Thailand's northernmost point at Mae Sai which is well known for its crisp mountain scenery, and hilltribes. North Chiang Rai falls within the region known as the Golden Triangle, the area where the borders of Thailand, Myanmar and Laos converge.

The infamous Golden Triangle was once the centre of all opium poppy growing in the country, Here, the illicit crops were grown, processed to heroin and then smuggled out. It has since been replaced by the small tourist village along the banks of the Mekhong river as well as cash crop agriculture initiatives to replace opium growing in the hilltribe villages .

The area's legacy of opium production, usage and trading - which continued right up until the 1980's, is well documented. The golden triangle was once the source for over half the world's illegal herion; route of crime and corruption from Asia to Africa to Europe and America.

The approximately one dozen hill tribes form a majority in Thailand's northern regions. There are numerous social and cultural differences between the hill tribals and the majority Thai population. Group members speak multiple languages; they are primarily animists in contrast to the majority Buddhist Thais, and they follow different social customs. The hill tribes are seeking equal civil rights and status, greater economic opportunities, and the protection of their culture and lifeways. Development programs have included the promotion of tourism and local crafts in tribal areas and the replacement of opium production with other crops such as cabbage. However, tourism is often viewed as treating them as "spectacles" rather than helping to ensure their way of life.

Before we returned to Bangkok we visited the province of Nan. We had never heard of the Mlabri Tribe before we embarked on our journey in the mountains. No one really knows how long the Mlabri had been in Thailand. The Mlabri are a hunting and gathering nomadic tribe. Their belief system forbids them to own and cultivate lands. The Mlabri number system only goes up to ten. They had no words for anything after ten. Since most of the jungles in Thailand are fast diminishing, the Mlabri people have to work as laborers on other hilltribes' farms in exchange for food and money. Only about three hundred Mlabris are left at this point. The Mlabri live under shelters made of bamboo and banana leaves. Traditionally they wore banana leaves, but nowadays they are given clothes by the Thai government to wear. There are about seventeen Mlabri families living in Thailand. We were greeted by the tribe elder upon our arrival. Following his greeting he returned to his hut only to only to appear a few minutes later wearing a long bright pink coat.

Near Chiang Mai in the north there is one of the most amazing and stunning temples we had ever seen in Thailand. Officially called the “Chapel of Wat Rong Khun” it has become to be known simply as “The White Temple”. This is a form of architecture which you don’t often see in temple grounds. The attention to detail is remarkable with beautiful artwork. To reach the temple you have to cross a bridge which symbolizes transition from the cycle of life to the land of the Buddha. In front of the bridge is a small semicircle, representing the world. The large semicircle with demon king’s fangs embodies passion and desire and the need to throw away passion and desire into the mouth of the demon king to clean ourselves before going inside the main building. On each rail of the bridge are 8 monsters, totaling 16 monsters representing 16 types of passion over a pit of hell. Down below there are sculptures of people who are I think trying to escape from hell. Inside the temple is a beautiful coloured mural of the Buddha. Apparently the Thai artist wanted it to be like a house of the Buddha with white color representing His purity and white glass representing his wisdom shining all over the earth and the universe. Two of Thailand's popular festivals were held recently. We travelled to Surin a city in the northeast to experience the annual Elephant Roundup. The people here are well recognized for their skill in capturing and rounding up wild elephants as well as training and taming them. Surin is often known as the 'province of elephants'. Once a year, they all head back to their native province for the big occasion. Seeing them walking the streets enjoying the buffet provided by the locals was certainly a spectacle. This year, more than 250 elephants took part in this event. The Elephant Round-up displays the amazing grace, strength and intelligence of this huge creature in games of soccer, log carrying, and the tug-of-war against human teams. The talent and playfulness of the Thailands national symbol is apparent. The highlight of the show is the mock battle, which shows the talent and strength of this lovable animal. In times past, elephants played a key role in wars against invading armies. Previously, the elephant round-up was a state ceremony presided over only by the King. Prayers and citations were devised for the ceremony.
Another event we enjoyed viewing held closer to Bangkok in the town of Lopburi was the Annual monkey buffet.
Every year, the town of Lopburi in Thailand hosts this special outdoor feast. The 600 guests of honour climb all over the food, steal treats from each other, and toss their leftovers onto the ground. After the meal, some of the guests show their gratitude by pulling hair and stealing earrings from the hosts while others make love in public. They are Lopburi's blessing and its bane. According to legend, the hero of the Ramayana epic rewarded his friend and ally, Hanuman the Monkey King, with what is now Lopburi. Centuries later, monkeys still rule the area around the town's two most sacred sites: the picturesque Khmer ruins and the nearby shrine. Although the monkeys live in the city and are not afraid of humans, they are certainly not domesticated. From their base in the shrines, they cross streets to climb on parked cars and groom each other on storefront awnings. They are at home scampering about the ancient Khmer ruins as they are scrambling up and down the jungle of electric wires, window grates and TV antennas. It looks like living or working in this monkey zone is both fun and trying. Michel was found to have more than one monkey on his back - literally as they seemed drawn to his camera back pack- checking out whether there were more scrumptuous treats hidden inside. Spiritually, the monkeys offer the citizens of Lopburi wonderful opportunities to tum boon (make merit). According to Thai beliefs, donating food to the monkeys is a perfect way to accrue good karma.
Before the holiday we attended a Michelin Christmas party at the beach in Rayon. The whole resort was reserved for Michelin employees which was a good thing as the Karaoke blared throughout the night. We indulged on seafood and thai food and had a blast participating in some games. After a 3 week break Kelsey returned to school. She and James enjoyed welcoming the New Year in Pattaya, a beach town. James (in the hat) who a B Boy dancer in his spare time recently with his dance troupe won second place in a dance contest. In the following photo they are seen receiving their prize of 50,000 baht ( 1,700 Cdn )
Michel returned to work after a 2 week holiday. As well as his present job he will be taking on some new responsibilities at one of Michelin's partner plants. I have resumed my french classes as well as my teaching and facilitation work. The Welfare Committee of the Canadian Club of Thailand was very busy during December as we visited and presented gifts to the groups and organizations for underprivledged children that the club supports. Christmas was a wonderful opportunity to play Santa. Thai children are very polite and are taught at an early age to wai ( prayer like gesture of hello) when spoken to by an older person.
Pictured below is one of the regular orphanage volunteers. John and his wife Marion moved to Bangkok from Kenya and he is welcomed presence at the orphange. He is seen here holding 13 year old Paul who has lived at the orphange all his life. Although Paul is not able to talk or walk he demonstrates his enthusiasm when we arrive with a loud shrill and a huge smile! Thailand is not only famous for its food but also is known for its beautiful women. The beauty of Thai women is commonly used in advertising and marketing products. At a recent Photo Fair they were busy promoting and charming the audience with their appeal and sexy outfits. I wonder who sold more equipment - Canon or Nikon :)
Following our return from our Christmas vacation we had the pleasure of having Keri Pynch visit. Keri is from our hometown in Cambridge Nova Scotia and teaches in Korea. She stopped by to visit during her vacation in Thailand. Although a short visit we had fun doing some sightseeing and here she is seen making friends with a Thai ladyboy ( Katoey)
Father Christmas promotes safe sex in Thailand. This mannequin is made out of condoms and can be found in " Cabbages and Condoms Restaurants " in several locations around Thailand. These restaurants are operated by the Population and Community Development Association. Instead of receiving a mint upon finishing a meal all patrons receive a condom! All proceeds are used to fund social development programs. Until next time wishing you all love and blessings.
Go well
Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Life in the Kingdom

Sawaadee kha,
We hope all finds you well. The escalating political situation here seems to be at a stage where either there will be military intervention or the government will resign. The Thais are genuinely concerned and disheartened about the image shown to the world as their country struggles in it's efforts for a healthy democracy. While the situation is of concern and cannot be taken lightly, as we watch the news and observe, it's obvious to us that many of the images sent globally are sensationalized. We have great affection for the Thai people and hope and pray for reconciliation. We feel safe at present and receive regular updates with recommendations to stay away from the protest sites.
Despite the tumultuous political situation and some of the effects in the daily life of Bangkokians, it's life as usual in the city. Bangkok is now being lit up in preparation for the holidays. It's somewhat odd to get into the christmas spirit with temperatures at 33 degrees yet snowmen, santa and christmas trees are showing up in the central section of the city especially in the high end shopping districts better known by one of my friends as "temples of materialism". Although Thais do not celebrate Christmas with the same recognition as us, in Bangkok they are generally ready for a celebration and with such a foreign influence here they are happy to contribute.
During Kelsey's school holiday and our vacation from work we had a great trip to Vietnam. We toured North Vietnam, spent a few days in Hanoi and then traveled through one of Vietnam's famous attractions Halong Bay. Halong Bay is located in north east Vietnam. The bay features thousands of limestone karsts and isles in various sizes and shapes. The bay has a 120 kilometre long coastline and is approximately 1,553 square kilometres in size with 1969 islets. Several of the islands are hollow, with enormous caves, others support floating villages of fishermen. We savored the breathtaking landscape, dined on delicious seafood and slept on a Junk, an oriental style boat equipped with modern conveniences.
Vietnam has a population of over 76,000,000. The population is made up of mainly ethnic Vietnamese people (those whose ancestors moved to the area thousands of years before) who have settled in the lowlands, while the largest minority group consists of ethnic Chinese. The Chinese immigrants (those whose families settled in the area within the last few hundred years) have settled for the most part in cities and provincial towns and consist of around 2,000,000 people.
We were told that the Vietnamese people strive for 4.. 3..2.. meaning they work toward having a vechicle with 4 wheels ( 70% own motorcycles instead of cars ), a house with 3 levels and 2 children. They are deemed successful upon reaching this goal. The Vietnamese sometimes appear to answer "yes" (da)to all questions. However, the way of saying yes is quite polite "Yes, I am listening," "Yes, I am confused," or "Yes, I do not want to offend." "Thua" (meaning please) is often added in front of the first name to show respect. As well as a respectful culture, we found the people of Vietnam to be industrious, serious and focused on the task at hand. The rebuilding process following the devastation of the Vietnam war is underway and the development is rapid. We toured a Humanitarian Centre ( pictured below) employing some of the people who were seriously disabled by Agent Orange. In Vietnam, during the period of 1961-1971, American army sprayed more than 80 million liters of toxic chemical substances, most of which were Agent Orange and caused great suffering to countless families (the Vietnamese government estimates about 3 million people.) This left serious consequences on the natural environment and on generations of Vietnamese. The visible scars are a reminder of their past. Their resourcefulness and resiliency is inspiring.
It is said that blondes have more fun however on Halloween I certainly enjoyed my hours as a brunette. Attending a International Humanitarian fundraising event entitled Jungle Jive was a blast with Michel taking away the "King of the Jungle" award for the best male costume. I think checking out the tigress with his magnifying glass endeared him to the judges :) October seemed to be a month of Tigers with a visit to a Tiger Temple, a Buddhist temple where Tigers who were abandoned were raised by monks. This temple is a forest sanctuary for many animals including deer, boars, and Thailand's popular and hard working water buffalo.
Please meet Banita, another child who resides at Pakreet Orphanage. Banita is 9 years old and has lived at the orphange since she was a baby. She greets us with a big smile when we visit and looks forward to her outing . At Pakreet many of the children if provided with the benefit of psysiotherapy have an opportunity to improve their motor skills and quality of life. Sadly the orphanage does not have the financial resources to support the salary of psysiotherapists. A church group in the UK have helped by sending Interns to Pakreet for 3 month time periods. We are witnessing the positive results of this in the development of these children. There is an need for more continuity and I am attempting to connect with groups in hope of obtaining funding to hire a Physiotherapist for 1 year. The salary for a Physiotherapist is significantly lower than in Canada. For 10,000 baht per month ( $350 cdn) the lives of these children can be significantly improved.
One of the joys of Co-chairing the Welfare Committee of the Canada Club of Thailand is meeting the children the club supports. Recently my friend Sharon and I had fun visiting the children at SangTawan Home. The housemother Tat provides a loving home like environment for the 12 children who reside there. These children do not a 'regular' home due to abandonment, death or a parent who is in prison. They enjoyed hearing my Thai... had many giggles and touched our hearts with their affection and love of life.
Kelsey is doing well. She's discovering the cultural differences and all that brings to her relationship with James. Our conversations have been enlightening as she continues to learn. She's thinking about starting her post secondary education here in September.
Michel recently returned from another trip to China. This was his second trip to China since our arrival. He stayed in the city of Suzhou, an ancient city with a 2500 year history. Although it was a work trip the Chinese hospitality was evident- after putting in some long hours at work he was treated to some sightseeing to break up the work routine. Suzhou is located in the center of the Yangtze Delta, with Shanghai to the east. Since almost half of the city area is covered by water, including a vast number of ponds and streams, Suzhou is praised as the 'Oriental Venice'.
Recently during a brief spell of unity amid the political crisis in this Buddhist kingdom we observed the royal funeral procession and lavish funeral ceremony of Princess Galyani, the beloved sister of the King. In Bangkok, tens of thousands of people were on the streets watching as the canons were fired one minute apart to mark the beginning of the procession which left the Grand Palace. Craftsmen spent the past nine months working on the 40 metre high royal crematorium tower ( pictured below) where the 84-year-old who died in January was cremated. Since her passing the Princess was lieing in state at the Grand Palace. People across the country wore black as part of the official six day mourning period . It was the first royal funeral in the kingdom in more than a decade and was a colourful cultural spectacle, lasting six days. Hundreds of soldiers in crimson outfits, flanked by conch shell-blowers and drummers, pulled a two-centuries-old golden teak carriage bearing the remains of Princess Galyani through the streets of old Bangkok. This practice reinforces the belief in the concept of God-incarnate in the Thai monarcy in which the royal family are believed to be celestial beings that have descended from the heavens to earth to protect and look after the welfare of the people. It then becomes the duty of the people to give the remains ceremonious cremations to help their soul return to the heavenly abode.
We're always thrilled to have visitors from home. Fellow Newfoundlanders Melanie and Andrea joined us for a couple of days while taking a break from an Intern Teaching project in the south. In this photo the brunttee standing next to me is not female but is actually one of Bangkoks infamous and flamboyant Ladyboys.
My cousin Stephanie and her husband Stephen (also newfies) chose Thailand to honeymoon and we were happy to show them some Bangkok sights before they headed to Thailand's famous beaches. In this photo it's souvenier shopping time and they're learning first hand the important art of bargaining. We're using a bit more French in our household now due to my french classes. I'm eager and enthusiastic about speaking this beautiful language. Michel is patient with my eagerness however I'm sure at times he wonders what he got himself into:) I'm gaining more of an appreciation for french culture and style as I continue to facilitate a Conversational English class to french women living in Bangkok.
Teaching English to Thai children is something I've found rewarding and I plan to continue to do this as the opportunity arises. My faciliatation work continues part time with the Thai Burma Refugee Border Consortium.
Though we'll miss the Canadian Christmas we'll celebrate combining some of our traditional values with this cultures traditions. On the 26th we plan to drive to the North and visit the country of Laos during our holiday.
From across the miles we send you our blessing and love during this Christmas season. May your inner wisdom shine with the discovery that spirit that is heightened during this time of year is with you always.
Until next time,
Blessings and Go well
Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey