Sunday, May 10, 2009

Life in the Kingdom

Sawwaadee kha, We're beginning the rainy season now. Following daily temperatures of 37-40 degrees the evenings' heavy downpours and thunder and lightening is a refreshing welcome. We are witness to amazing and electrifying lightening storms from our balcony.
The political upheaval finds itself in a "lull" stage presently. It's interesting as a foreigner to live here during these times. The political consciousness that is birthing itself amongst the Thai majority finds the political development system behind in it's ability to respond accordingly. The masses are now standing up demanding to be heard!!
Kelsey celebrated her birthday in March with a visit to one of Bangkok's popular Katoey caberet shows. Katoeys dress and live as women. They undergo hormone replacement therapy, most have breast implants, and eventually have genital reassignment surgery done. They go to great lengths to conceal any tell-tale signs of masculinity, including surgery to reduce the size of the Adam's apple and other medical procedures to shape their bodies more like those of women (jawbone, hips, buttocks) - even voice chord surgery. Katoeys are fully integrated in and generally accepted by Thai society, even in the countryside. Those who don't work in restaurants, bars and cabaret shows hold regular jobs like nurses, secretaries, beauticians, stylists, and some even become popular TV stars.
Some become prostitutes though; the most beautiful ones count among the highest paid sex workers in Thailand. It is believed that the acceptance they enjoy in society is due to the nature of the surrounding Buddhist culture, which places a high value on tolerance. Legal recognition of katoeys is non-existent in Thailand. Even after genital reassignment surgery they are not allowed to change their legal sex. Katoeys often belong to lower social classes, and their suicide rate is significantly higher than that of any other segment of the Thai population. Still, many go on to make their mark.
Kelsey's boyfriend James entered the monkhood in April. It is common practice for every young man to spend some time as a monk, living at the temple and learning about the teachings of Lord Buddah. Although Kelsey was permitted to visit him occasionally, James worked hard to adhere to the Buddhist precepts ( there are 227 of them, one of them is not to touched or allow himself to be touched by a female.) This time is very important to a Thai family. Having a son as a monk is a form of merit making resulting in good karma in a future life.
We journeyed to the south for 8 days to celebrate the Thai New Year ( Songkran) in April.
The coastline of Krabi is picture perfect- clear azure waters, waterly beaches and a backdrop of limestone mountains covered in rich vegetation.
The Songkran Festival starts April 13 and lasts between 3 and 5 days, depending on where you are in Thailand. The Thai people celebrate this festival with water. Everyone gets soaking wet and since it is the hottest season of the year, the custom is quite refreshing. Known as the "Water Festival" as people believe that water will wash away bad luck. The Songkran tradition is recognized as a valuable custom for the Thai community, society and religions. The value for family is to provide the opportunity for family members to gather in order to express their respects to the elders by pouring scented water onto the hands of their parents and grandparents. The elders in return wish the youngsters good luck and prosperity. It's a party time and the day is filled with "soonuk" ( fun.)
I share my birthday with the Thai New Year and we celebrated my - - year in Krabi. The staff at our hotel was more than pleased to join us in the celebration and enjoyed learning about my birthday "nose buttering tradition". Donning our songkran shirts Michel and I ventured out to a Buddhist mountain shrine. After climbing 1,237 steps ( they were steep) to pay respects to Lord Buddah at this mountain-top shrine we were assured that this year will be filled with much good fortune. Our ability to walk without discomfort for the few days was a small price to pay for such a possible reward:)
During our vacation in the south and after a day of breathtaking scenery travelling in a long tail boat, Michel was tickled to have placed his feet on James Bond island where the movie "The Man with the Golden Gun" was filmed. This island has become a famous tourist attraction drawing hundreds of people each day. Thailand's Muslims are largely concentrated in the four southern provinces. The area is less prosperous than central Thailand, and many of the region's inhabitants feel they are at a disadvantage compared to the country's Buddhist majority. Thailand's Muslims often speak of discrimination and a lack of opportunities, a resentment which occasionally leads to clashes with the authorities. It is due to these clashes and violence that it is considered unsafe. We did however feel safe to visit two of the provinces.
A trip to a muslim fishing visit was an enjoyable outing. These hand painted Korlae fishing boats are exquisite. The boat is like an artistic masterpiece and is considered life art as the Korlae boat not only shows off the greatness of its design, but is also the primary instrument used by muslim fishermen to make a living. Muslims make up about 8 % of the population in Thailand.
The majority live in the southern provinces. While we were welcome to visit the outside of this mosque I was not permitted inside. Women are not permitted in the main sanctuary area, however there is a smaller room where women meet. I assume being a woman and not having a veil to cover my head was the reason for this exclusion.
There are many species of birds in Thailand. I was surprised in the south to see birds in cages outside of most homes. The birds are regarded in parts of southern Thailand as good luck and are kept as pets by men who carry them in cages to friends' houses, a sort of avian iPod. The more birds, the more volume. Birds with the most tuneful song are highly prized.
The uniqueness of this market outside of Bangkok is that it is situated on a railway track. Trains go through this market several times a day. Store owners have to move their wares as the train moves through. As soon as the train passes they reassemble and it's back to business.
En route to the famous Ankor Wat in Cambodia and at the top of an extinct volcano in northern Thailand is Phnom Rung. It is one of the most beautiful khmer ancient monuments in Thailand. It was built between in the 10th century is a Hindu shrine dedicated to the god Shiva.
Khao Yai National Park was established as the first national park of Thailand and was named a World Heritage Site in 2005 because of its rich variety of flora (2500 species) and fauna. Outside of the park we viewed a magnificent site. At dusk millions of bats came streaming out of the limestone cave.. a spectacle which can be seen each evening at dusk.
Although we take every opportunity to travel and explore the culture and meet the people of this country, life continues for us in Bangkok. Despite some cuts at Michelin we are beginning to see some positive trends in production again .
Kelsey has completed her grade 12 coursework and we're looking forward to celebrating her graduation festival soon. I've told her teachers that I'll be the woman in the red dress doing a happy dance:) She'll begin an International Hospitality and Tourism program in Bangkok in July.
I continue with my volunteer work at the orphanage as well as teaching English. On occasion I conduct tours to english speaking visitors at the National Museum. My facilitation work with the Thai-Burma Refugee Consortium is fulfilling and despite challenges with learning a new language ...I'm still enrolled in french class. Recently I was pleased to accept the position of Vice President of the Canadian Club of Thailand.
We're looking forward to our annual vacation and will arrive home on May 31st. Michel will leave a week earlier and make a stopover in France to visit his family.
Hope to see many of you during our three weeks home.
Blessings to you all.
Go well
Dorothy, Michel and Kelsey

No comments: